One of the beautiful things about dry laid patios is that the foundation can withstand freeze and thaw without cracking like concrete will.
Larger than half an inch= more likely to crack. But what do you do if you need to fix cracking polymeric sand? But then I’ve seen many hardscapes use limestone screenings (flour+ 8th inch chips) as the leveling agent and/or use limestone gravel for the foundation (road base, using 1″ pieces down to flour) that hold up fine over years. I’ve seen this both here in eastern Pennsylvania and out where you live. Couldn't other binding agents like lime/ash or cement be used? Using your own native soils though, a person COULD screen there topsoil and collect all gravels of certain sized, and mix them with finer sand and clay particles, and thereby create a decent soil foundation, using just what you have. Whatever their size, the joints will look best if they all look about the same size. Maybe your decomposed granite does not contain any fine particles and thus, us useless for in between you flagstone pavers–you got bunk material. Filled with stone dust and in order to keep the gaps looking regular we only had to re-cut a few of them to correct the factories imperfect cutting…. And yes, I do prefer tighter joints, but dg should work for 2″ joints. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. great article wish I would have read it before installing my pavers. Psyllium husk joint binder is, as far as I can tell, a lot more natural than an acrylic based product. Simple, right?
This requires re-raking.The four dog kennels are relatively easy to maintain. You can get rid of weeds easily by boiling up a pot of water in the pouring water on them. JavaScript is disabled.
-Many other ground covers to choose from. I was thinking of the polymeric hardening sand before reading your advice here and I’m thinking screenings (Decomposed Granite I think is what it’s listed at in Lowes) might still seem “attractive” to the dogs if it is very loose like sand. This can make the stone slippery and change it’s appearance…without providing any benefit. Early in my flagstone patio career I used to try and keep the screenings in my flagstone joints as close to level with the stones as possible, but with foot traffic, wind and rain, the joints seem to naturally level off to around an average of one eighth of an inch shy of flush with the flagstone.”. Quick question: in cases where the polymeric sand has left a white haze on the slate as you mentioned, what is the best way to remove the haze? Mix up some new polymeric sand, of matching type and color–mix it up in a 5 gallon bucket, like you might mix up a small batch of mortar. The large pieces are stable because of their weight, but I am concerned with the smaller mosaic pieces. Sure, you could do that. 3. Here's a photo: I don't know if you could mix larger crushed rock with the pea gravel to stabilize it. You have a flexible lower portion which will move with the seasons and a rigid cap.
Stones will stay in place if done correctly. Have you found that cats use the pea gravel as a litter box? How has the path held up? The cobblestones…..1 inch gap sounds large. We didn't try to stabilize it, but what we did do is to put down flagstones in the pathways. Should I give up trying to grow grass in shady yard with pepper tree? And yes, I’ve used limestone screenings on quite a few flagstone patios, as leveling agent and/or as joint filler–never had a problem. I intend to lay one 12″ x 5′ long 2 inch thick tread on top of the cinder block. I’ll Probably go with your suggestion of screenings or DG. Get the cement to a dry-sish mashed potato-like consistency and fill the joint, pressing down firmly.
Now I am stuck with what is the best material to fill the cracks. The walkway to my front door is about 50 feet long but rises about 6-7 feet over about nine 7 inch high steps. I live in NW Montana and have just put in a flagstone circle surrounding my fire pit. Not my favorite option, but not a huge problem so long as b) they fit the stones tight enough. I’d love to get your opinion, my gut tells me to stay with DG.
We suspected that the sand had to be replace or refill/reapply, we just didn’t know what was causing what we were seeing. However, due to a ton of professional blogs advising against these landscape fabrics in flower beds ( I have decided to heed the advice and not use fabric in flowerbeds anymore) but have started to question whether I should still use it for the pathway. Any corrections or suggestions I should be advised of? I hope for your sake, and the contractors sake too, that such a fate can be avoided.
Sorry. I have had issues with weeds growing like crazy and for the past few years I have had digger wasps boring holes and burying their eggs in the holes. I think I’ve finally hit on a construction solution that satisfies both function and aesthetics. Have a great week! Just did a repair where the sand in-between and under the flagstones was undermined by and taken over by ants.
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does polymeric come in colors? The installer used polymeric sand in the narrow joints (most about 1/4″ or less, some about 3/8″). Don’t Forget an Edging Material. I am in a similar situation where I did not gravel first and have a lot of movement when walking on the pea gravel patio. Hopefully I will have great results like yours. Thank you so much for your reply – I’ll look into the options you mentioned and let you know how I get on – I really appreciate your help. by Devin | May 9, 2013 | how-to | 208 comments. Just don’t spray any poison into there, please and thank you. Great article. Wanted to check with you the cheapest way to do it under 2K if possible? Ligia from San Jose, California. Thinking of switching to concrete—-frustrated poly user….help. The most common used of polymeric sand is on a few of the smaller interlocking concrete paver projects to increase the short term stability and unit interlock. Once it dries and hardens, the sand stays in place. I rarely sub, but your outfit looks alright. Thanks for your colorful commentary and your insight (with years and years of experience). Then the top inch or 2 with the stone dust.
This falls under the “no cement at all in a dry laid patio” rule. It makes me crazy because when it rains or the wind blows, it seems to go everywhere. The steps are currently on cinderblocks. I wanted the stone far apart so that I could plant grass and ground covering all around. I thought I was the only one because the rookies and the guys who just want the money sell it like it’s some kind of elixir. It’s an 8″ long stone, so now it’s sitting 2″ high. Just approach the work with heart and you’ll be alright. I wonder if maybe the solution on a hill would be to terrace it? Like on your clothes or something.
Screenings are heavier than regular sand, thus they will not wash out quite so easily. My neighbors approve. More info: Taking care of your stone patio, “A flagstone patios joints can never be truly “flush with the top of the stone”. I dissuade all of my clients from using polymeric sand. My brother suggested sand? How is raking leaves? I particularly appreciate the advice on killing any weeds that get in there with hot water, vinegar or pulling them by hand vs using Round UP. Another material I had considered was decomposed granite, which I recall seeing a lot in California. Or how to deal with it? You did an awesome job. Portland cement should not be used.
We enclosed the space under our south facing deck as a sun room, hoping to grow some flowers and/or veggies year round and also have a warm sunny place to hang out for three seasons. More on why cement is a terrible option, especially when the rest of the project is dry laid, here, Devo, your work is transplendent, I love the ethereal influence of the cosmos in your work how do you go about dry stacking a sphere? They're sold as soil stabilizers (type that into google and settle in), but the principle is the same. Next, get some big rough gravel. *If you are in a place that never gets below freezing, then these recommendations are less crucial. I think that where there is soil, the rain results in dirty water covering the stones, making them dirty more quickly than might be expected. I realize it would be better to remove everything but I’m not up to doing that. The stones can act perfectly as an edging material to enhance and draw attention to gardens, flower beds, trees and other landscaping features. Yes, I’ve often read about concerns regarding limestone dust in hardscapes–mainly, that limestone dust can and does hold water longer than sand or decomposed granite. Nope, no good. This is hard for the dogs to walk on (sharp edges). Is there a liquid or possible caulking that could be used in this type of situation? I hope you are happy with the final product! and pour the slurry atop the screenings to get the moss to grow there. What do you suggest or have you had these problems also? HATED IT!!! Small voids may form. Any information you can give I totally appreciate it. I wish everyone would do that. I really enjoyed your post. The joint are fairly wide – 1″ to 2.5″ average, and he even left some 3″-6″ areas along the perimeter walls. Like all new things, it takes a minute before you realize the long term results. You simply sweep the material into the flagstone (or other paver) joints, lightly hose down, then it solidifies. You can definitely use this process for a 10×10 patio area. This site is a great service. Also – do you use stone enhancer to intensify the color of the flag stone? Okay, on second thought……I might hose down really well, then take a 2×4 and a 3 pound hammer to it. You may have to wait a few months since he is sought after like that, but he, does travel to new jersey.
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